Corner strobes help needed.
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Corner strobes help needed.
I am installing corner strobes in a new 2006 Ford Expedition and I am stumped on where to install the strobes in the headlight assembly. The headlights appear to be double walled and not many flat locations to drill a hole to choose from. Also sealing them from moisture is a concern.
I will be using Whelen strobes lamps.
Any assistance would be appreciated.
I will be using Whelen strobes lamps.
Any assistance would be appreciated.
- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
Good Luck
Headlights are getting so much more complicated..
Sometimes you can overdrill the outer housing and then use the interior housing..
I reccomend the non rubber "slip in" style for the ones that use screws - without a flat inner surface the rubber ones tend to pop out..
Common sense is key when installing these things these days.
Sometimes you can overdrill the outer housing and then use the interior housing..
I reccomend the non rubber "slip in" style for the ones that use screws - without a flat inner surface the rubber ones tend to pop out..
Common sense is key when installing these things these days.
2006 Expedition
We have had a few problems with hideaways with the Expeditions, and even though they are sealed, still would leak. So in place of strobes in the headlights, we opted to put Whelen 400 series strobes mounted in the bumper facing sideways. We also placed some hide a ways in the foglights for front strobe warning.
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- Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:58 pm
- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
Yes - to bad every manufacturer recomends not to add silicon to the assembly...
Also remember that at least with Whelen you need to utilize the heat disipation ring - and it is becoming very hard to find a place for it these days..
That why most have opted back to the tube that uses screws to attach it...
Also remember that at least with Whelen you need to utilize the heat disipation ring - and it is becoming very hard to find a place for it these days..
That why most have opted back to the tube that uses screws to attach it...
paramedic218 wrote:if you get the rubber insert bulbs and give a bead of silicone aroung the seal then you sould be fine. i have done alot of hideaway strobes and never had one leak.
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- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:58 pm
- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
Te bigger issues is if done right you shoudl not need any...
The unit should seal properly.
The install guide lays out very good guidelines:
http://www.whelen.com/install/133/13331.pdf
This is for the Screw in type..
Here are the rubber base units:
http://www.whelen.com/install/134/13409.pdf
It does mentioned that if you are converting from the screw in style you need to seal the holes previousely but nowhere mentions the need for silicon.. around the tube assembly.
The unit should seal properly.
The install guide lays out very good guidelines:
http://www.whelen.com/install/133/13331.pdf
This is for the Screw in type..
Here are the rubber base units:
http://www.whelen.com/install/134/13409.pdf
It does mentioned that if you are converting from the screw in style you need to seal the holes previousely but nowhere mentions the need for silicon.. around the tube assembly.
I appreciate all of the input. I have both types of strobe lights available to me (screw type and plug) but I believe that I would be better off using the plug type due to both screws would show on this type of headlights.
It appears that drilling in the area located closet to the center of the vehicle (left or right side) and towards the back would be a good location.
I installed some strobe lights on another Ford Expedition awhile back and it seemed to always have moisture in it. I was avoiding using any silicone on them per the instructions.
Any ideas or suggestions?
It appears that drilling in the area located closet to the center of the vehicle (left or right side) and towards the back would be a good location.
I installed some strobe lights on another Ford Expedition awhile back and it seemed to always have moisture in it. I was avoiding using any silicone on them per the instructions.
Any ideas or suggestions?
- WhelenTech
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 1:35 pm
Come to grips...
Most here will need to come to grips with not using corner strobes very soon...
Especially since Headlights are getting more complicated.
Personally if you have decent LED units in the windows they make corner strobes pretty much worthless anyway - especially at night...
I woudl just look toward additional grill or integrated bumper lighting.
Especially since Headlights are getting more complicated.
Personally if you have decent LED units in the windows they make corner strobes pretty much worthless anyway - especially at night...
I woudl just look toward additional grill or integrated bumper lighting.
Screws showing (which I haven't seen any go THRU the assemby but could happen) isn't a major concern as you have a 1inch strobe tube protruding in the housing anyways.ert1111 wrote:I appreciate all of the input. I have both types of strobe lights available to me (screw type and plug) but I believe that I would be better off using the plug type due to both screws would show on this type of headlights.
Plug vs Screw: Screw comes in colors and handles 5 more watts of power. Plugs are clear only (unless you have NOS color plug ins) and are 20 watts only.
Lowband radio. The original and non-complicated wide area interoperable communications system
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I tend to install strobes in turn/marker lamp housings rather than headlights.
Some headlights are not really sealed though, but are instead vented through a "semi-permeable membrane" which is in reality a perforated plastic sticker placed over a hole in the housing. So a little air leakage around your strobe is not going to affect things much.
I am a diesel mechanic primarily and so I am not too fond of silicone for many applications and this is one of them. For a corner strobe you want something very sticky such as 3M super weatherstrip (yellowsnot to those in the trade) or my favorite, Lexel by Sashco which is a clear construction adhesive/caulk. I use just enough to fill the groove in the rubber, not really looking for it to do the sealing (the hole should be drilled smooth and round so the rubber does the sealing) just looking for a little extra adhesion so it doesn't pop out.
The most effective warning device on an emergency vehicle (my main job title is as a firefighter) is the wigwags. For this I really like the FedSig FH1, it has a nice rapid, random pattern that I like to use. I think it grabs the attention of drivers better than most anything. A pair of highly focused, straight ahead, clear lens, 55w halogens right in your rearview mirror is going to do better than any light bar and strobes.
Birken
Some headlights are not really sealed though, but are instead vented through a "semi-permeable membrane" which is in reality a perforated plastic sticker placed over a hole in the housing. So a little air leakage around your strobe is not going to affect things much.
I am a diesel mechanic primarily and so I am not too fond of silicone for many applications and this is one of them. For a corner strobe you want something very sticky such as 3M super weatherstrip (yellowsnot to those in the trade) or my favorite, Lexel by Sashco which is a clear construction adhesive/caulk. I use just enough to fill the groove in the rubber, not really looking for it to do the sealing (the hole should be drilled smooth and round so the rubber does the sealing) just looking for a little extra adhesion so it doesn't pop out.
The most effective warning device on an emergency vehicle (my main job title is as a firefighter) is the wigwags. For this I really like the FedSig FH1, it has a nice rapid, random pattern that I like to use. I think it grabs the attention of drivers better than most anything. A pair of highly focused, straight ahead, clear lens, 55w halogens right in your rearview mirror is going to do better than any light bar and strobes.
Birken
The Expedition headlights and turn signals are incorporated in the same assembly. My employers other installation locations have utilized clear strobe lights in the Expedition headlight assembly’s but I can not remember where to drill. I was trying to complete this project over the weekend.
Thanks Birken for supporting headlight flashers. I remember when they first came out still believe they are the best attention getter since sliced bread…
Thanks Birken for supporting headlight flashers. I remember when they first came out still believe they are the best attention getter since sliced bread…
For these double walled headlamp fixtures I first use a 1.5 or 2 inch hole saw and of course cut the hole in an area that is the most flat(if you can find one). Then cut the 1 inch hole in the inner wall. I find that using a very sparse application of silicone lube around the strobe bulb rubber base helps spin them in without breaking them. Never had a problem with the silicone lube creating a mess or the rubber strobe bulb popping out. For resealing after installing the bulb I find an old round electical tape roll plastic carrier(most people discard these but I store them for this very project). Cut up the soft plastic(sharp sizzors will work) carrier to a shape and size that will cover the hole. Slice a straight line down the center of plastic only to the center, then cut a small hole in the center large enough to pass the bulb wires through. Use silicone seal to seal up around the edges of the plastic that you just cut up. Always remember to try and mount the bulb at least an inch(preferably more) away from any other object protruding into the fixture as the heat from the strobe bulb can become intense. Also - if possible always ground the sheild wires on each end of the bulb cable assemblies to reduce EMI emissions. Lastly always test this setup by letting the strobes run for approx an hour while the car engine idles and feel the strobe power supply and light fixtures for excessive heat. These methods always work well for me. I usually install strobes in crown vics and durangos. Good luck......fineshot1
fineshot1
NJ USA
NJ USA
Thanks for all of the inputs on installing the strobe lights in the headlight assembly.
I have consulted with our contract installation crew and we have come up with a location and I will be making the commitment (drilling a 1” hole) and installing the plug type in the next few days.
If anyone is interested, I can post a couple of pictures and any observations I might have on this part of the installation.
I have consulted with our contract installation crew and we have come up with a location and I will be making the commitment (drilling a 1” hole) and installing the plug type in the next few days.
If anyone is interested, I can post a couple of pictures and any observations I might have on this part of the installation.
For what it’s worth, I run into this all the time also.
What I do to help seal the outer hole I made...the larger 1.5 or 2 in hole that is. I re-use the piece I cut out. One...it’s already got a small hole in the middle of it just large enough to fit all three leads thru. Two...if you don’t get to carried away with drilling it out...its almost a perfect fit to go back into the same hole you just made. I take a small piece of vapor wrap (Stuff we use to seal hard line connectors) and roll it into a small tube by rubbing it back and forth between my hands.
This stuff is sticky and made to work with changing weather conditions. It expands and contracts nicely. I also use a small amount around the strobe bulb. The only issues I have with any form of installing these hide-away strobes are that of servicing them when they go bad. Installing them, making the install all nice and pretty is all well and good…but if you go overboard on it…they don’t last forever, you or somebody else will have the opportunity to undo all that nice work just to replace the bulb.
I try to stay away from silicon as much as possible just for that reason. It does work…very well, until you have to remove it to access your bulb. The vapor wrap works well…and comes off much easier…well unless you have it under 10 wraps of electrical tape…LOL
Hope that helps.
What I do to help seal the outer hole I made...the larger 1.5 or 2 in hole that is. I re-use the piece I cut out. One...it’s already got a small hole in the middle of it just large enough to fit all three leads thru. Two...if you don’t get to carried away with drilling it out...its almost a perfect fit to go back into the same hole you just made. I take a small piece of vapor wrap (Stuff we use to seal hard line connectors) and roll it into a small tube by rubbing it back and forth between my hands.
This stuff is sticky and made to work with changing weather conditions. It expands and contracts nicely. I also use a small amount around the strobe bulb. The only issues I have with any form of installing these hide-away strobes are that of servicing them when they go bad. Installing them, making the install all nice and pretty is all well and good…but if you go overboard on it…they don’t last forever, you or somebody else will have the opportunity to undo all that nice work just to replace the bulb.
I try to stay away from silicon as much as possible just for that reason. It does work…very well, until you have to remove it to access your bulb. The vapor wrap works well…and comes off much easier…well unless you have it under 10 wraps of electrical tape…LOL
Hope that helps.