TIR3 questions (Have searched the boards before posting)
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TIR3 questions (Have searched the boards before posting)
Hi everybody.
I'm a new member from across the pond.
I'm currently using a 4 head strobe system on my bike. (2 Blue grill lights facing forward and 2 clear hide away's
in my position lights which are angled out about 45 degrees.) The lights are primarily used when blocking
intersections during parades and the like. Normally not for your typical emergency response.
The above system works okay for that.
Since the power supply does need a fair bit of space and the bike has equipment added constantly,
I'm contemplating on adding / switching to led's. (Mostly because these draw less power and need less space.)
I consider the Whelen TIR3's to be my best option for this.
The thing is that I've fallen for Whelen's "action flash" pattern. (3 Or 4 quad flashes followed by 6 single bursts.)
The 3-wire version had that, but isn't able to sync multiple heads i.e. alternate between pairs. The 4-wire version
(syncable) doesn't have this pattern anymore. I'm also unable to find any diagrams explaining the Signalalert and
Commalert patterns on the net, to see if these would be an alternative.
After contacting Whelen's customer support I still haven't had my questions answered. Their only reply was :
"If it doesn't have the pattern, use a different head." I followed up on this, asking if there was an external
led flasher available containing this pattern. They replied:"You can't connect a flasher to a flasher. This will
not work." I shouldn't have to tell them that, when using an external flasher, the led-heads need to be
in steady burn mode. (Sorry for ranting.)
Would any of you using / knowing the TIR3's be able to answer some of these questions ?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the help !
p.s. How do the TIR3's compare to the Nova Bulls ?
I'm a new member from across the pond.
I'm currently using a 4 head strobe system on my bike. (2 Blue grill lights facing forward and 2 clear hide away's
in my position lights which are angled out about 45 degrees.) The lights are primarily used when blocking
intersections during parades and the like. Normally not for your typical emergency response.
The above system works okay for that.
Since the power supply does need a fair bit of space and the bike has equipment added constantly,
I'm contemplating on adding / switching to led's. (Mostly because these draw less power and need less space.)
I consider the Whelen TIR3's to be my best option for this.
The thing is that I've fallen for Whelen's "action flash" pattern. (3 Or 4 quad flashes followed by 6 single bursts.)
The 3-wire version had that, but isn't able to sync multiple heads i.e. alternate between pairs. The 4-wire version
(syncable) doesn't have this pattern anymore. I'm also unable to find any diagrams explaining the Signalalert and
Commalert patterns on the net, to see if these would be an alternative.
After contacting Whelen's customer support I still haven't had my questions answered. Their only reply was :
"If it doesn't have the pattern, use a different head." I followed up on this, asking if there was an external
led flasher available containing this pattern. They replied:"You can't connect a flasher to a flasher. This will
not work." I shouldn't have to tell them that, when using an external flasher, the led-heads need to be
in steady burn mode. (Sorry for ranting.)
Would any of you using / knowing the TIR3's be able to answer some of these questions ?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the help !
p.s. How do the TIR3's compare to the Nova Bulls ?
Duct tape is like the force... It has a light side and a dark side....And it binds the universe together...
- SPEAKER MIC
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- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:57 pm
personally, id go with steady burn tir 6 or a linear type led..
the 6 is great for distance light but the linear is better for a "spread"..
that said, if you get the 6, 3, or linear or their equivelant, get the steady burn ones as theyll be cheaper and get a "sho-me" powersupply..
i have one and it does all the stuff like whelen but for wayyyyyy cheaper...
the 6 is great for distance light but the linear is better for a "spread"..
that said, if you get the 6, 3, or linear or their equivelant, get the steady burn ones as theyll be cheaper and get a "sho-me" powersupply..
i have one and it does all the stuff like whelen but for wayyyyyy cheaper...
I TURN THE KNOB, THE LIGHT BLINKS AND IT BEEPS.........THATS ALL IT DOES!!!!!!
PLEASE WORK!!!..just once, thats all...
PLEASE WORK!!!..just once, thats all...
Hi Winger
well im from your side of the pond and use a couple of TIR3's and 6's and I can tell you im sorry they dont have the action flash it would be great if they did as I use strobes in the front on actionflash.
for the front of the bike the TIR3's are prob going to be the easiest to mount as you can make brakets for them were the tir6 is a panle mount
They do have nice pattern were they will alternate but while the one light is in its off stage it will strobe then go back to steady burn for a sec while the other side strobes if that makes sense
as for your direction lights with you not saying what bike it is im not 100% sure what to suggest for you if you can give some more info I can pull the info up and have a look at it and see whats what for you.
all the best
Paul
well im from your side of the pond and use a couple of TIR3's and 6's and I can tell you im sorry they dont have the action flash it would be great if they did as I use strobes in the front on actionflash.
for the front of the bike the TIR3's are prob going to be the easiest to mount as you can make brakets for them were the tir6 is a panle mount
They do have nice pattern were they will alternate but while the one light is in its off stage it will strobe then go back to steady burn for a sec while the other side strobes if that makes sense
as for your direction lights with you not saying what bike it is im not 100% sure what to suggest for you if you can give some more info I can pull the info up and have a look at it and see whats what for you.
all the best
Paul
Thanks for your input guys. Much appreciated.
The bike itself is a GL1500 (Goldwing). So there is a lot of room to put lights etc.. The limit is the bikes alternator. (Which has been upgraded to 90 Amps / 1325 watts approx.)
The bike itself is a GL1500 (Goldwing). So there is a lot of room to put lights etc.. The limit is the bikes alternator. (Which has been upgraded to 90 Amps / 1325 watts approx.)
Duct tape is like the force... It has a light side and a dark side....And it binds the universe together...
Hi Winger
Personaly with that id go with TIR3s forward facing and if you can get a 500 series in there go with the old style gen1 block led or TIR6 I can recomend the TIR6 as I use them mounted front bumper on mine for fend off / on and intersection markers and work really well and you can put covert lens on so you dont have colour till there on
As for the alty you wont have to worry about it with the LEDs I would be thinking with them all on steady burn you would pull what 2 amps total not 100% sure what the pull on the 6 is of top of my head but its low enough not to worry about it I can leave mine running all day long and not have a problem.
Personaly with that id go with TIR3s forward facing and if you can get a 500 series in there go with the old style gen1 block led or TIR6 I can recomend the TIR6 as I use them mounted front bumper on mine for fend off / on and intersection markers and work really well and you can put covert lens on so you dont have colour till there on
As for the alty you wont have to worry about it with the LEDs I would be thinking with them all on steady burn you would pull what 2 amps total not 100% sure what the pull on the 6 is of top of my head but its low enough not to worry about it I can leave mine running all day long and not have a problem.
Sounds like a plan to me.Personaly with that id go with TIR3s forward facing and if you can get a 500 series in there go with the old style gen1 block led or TIR6 I can recomend the TIR6 as I use them mounted front bumper on mine for fend off / on and intersection markers and work really well and you can put covert lens on so you dont have colour till there on
That was the whole starting point of my question, due to the current strain on the system with the strobes, siren, radio's etc..As for the alty you wont have to worry about it with the LEDs I would be thinking with them all on steady burn you would pull what 2 amps
If a single TIR3 isn't noticable enough, I could always use them in a dual configuration.
Once again, thanks for your input !
Duct tape is like the force... It has a light side and a dark side....And it binds the universe together...
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