Similar post on elightbars, but didn't get a single response.
Shorted the Key11 violet wire accidentally, so it now doesn't put +12v out when it should (voltmeter set to read amperage, no load, sparked when touched ground, hasn't worked since - stupid mistake). The "FE" 10A fuse was blown, so I replaced it.
Does anyone have a schematic for the relay PCB? Or, can you tell me how power gets to the violet wire? Which relays, diodes, etc?
I can hear a switch/relay moving inside the control box when I press the Key11, but no power is coming out, as I said.
Second half of question:
What are the "F" and "Aux" outputs for? The installation manual doesn't talk about them at all.
Output "E" has this in the manual (although I think I'm too dumb to understand how it can do both NO and NC, and how to use it effectively...
"Output E provides both normally open/normally closed
(NO/NC) and common contacts. By removing the fuse
labeled FE, it can be isolated from the +12-volt battery
supply for switching other POSITIVE voltages."
Thanks.
*edit* in the installation manual, it shows a 2A pico fuse, P/N 148151-08. Does anyone know its purpose and location? Since the Key11 is only a 1A output, I'm thinking this might be what blew...
SS2000SM help - Key11 and outputs
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Re: SS2000SM help - Key11 and outputs
E = NO
F = NC
Aux = C
You only need to pay attention to the labels on the outside. Additionally, it is not necessary to have positive feeding thru the connections with the fuse removed. Negative is fine to switch thru it.
On your violet wire issue, FE fuse isn't related.
You blew a 2a internal fuse which can be replaced by removing a resistor looking fuse mounted very close to the 12-pin connector on the bottom board. It's has a green body (From a SS2000SM-SD standpoint view). Noticeably it will not show any damage. You need to verify with your ohm meter (on the correct setting this time
) It requires soldering ability to replace it. Replacement fuses are generally available at well-stocked electronic stores.
F = NC
Aux = C
You only need to pay attention to the labels on the outside. Additionally, it is not necessary to have positive feeding thru the connections with the fuse removed. Negative is fine to switch thru it.
On your violet wire issue, FE fuse isn't related.
You blew a 2a internal fuse which can be replaced by removing a resistor looking fuse mounted very close to the 12-pin connector on the bottom board. It's has a green body (From a SS2000SM-SD standpoint view). Noticeably it will not show any damage. You need to verify with your ohm meter (on the correct setting this time
) It requires soldering ability to replace it. Replacement fuses are generally available at well-stocked electronic stores.Sean Barr
EVConcepts
EVConcepts
Re: SS2000SM help - Key11 and outputs
Dude, you rock. Thanks for the input.
I understood everything (especially the "correct setting"
) except this:
"Additionally, it is not necessary to have positive feeding thru the connections with the fuse removed. Negative is fine to switch thru it."
Since the control panel only has 5 internal relays (A-E), how do you switch the "F" output?
"Aux" is a powered output regardless of status of the entire system. It puts out +12v even when the unit is turned off (just hooked a map light up to it today-although I dunno' what amperage it can handle).
I understood everything (especially the "correct setting"
) except this:"Additionally, it is not necessary to have positive feeding thru the connections with the fuse removed. Negative is fine to switch thru it."
Since the control panel only has 5 internal relays (A-E), how do you switch the "F" output?
"Aux" is a powered output regardless of status of the entire system. It puts out +12v even when the unit is turned off (just hooked a map light up to it today-although I dunno' what amperage it can handle).
Re: SS2000SM help - Key11 and outputs
F is actually a normally closed position.
If you wish to have 12vdc output like the other 4 circuits, simply keep the 10a fuse in place and use the NO position. E represents a relay that provides more options.
To seperate the circuit, pull out the fuse and leave it open. Whatever circuit you put in the far right (C) will come thru NO and NC depending on the state of the relay regardless of polarity as long as you keep the amperage at 10a or lower. Do fuse it wherever possible externally.
A perfect example that I use is I use the common connected to ignition and I wire the shotgun lock to NO. The Smart siren is wired thru a delay-off timer and I wanted to ensure that the shotgun cannot be released if the key is not in the ignition even though the smart siren is activating the relay.
Again, normally open (NO) when the relay is at rest
normally closed (NC) when the relay is at rest.
If there's a fuse, NC will be positive with the relay at rest, NO will be postive when the relay is energized.
Without a fuse, NC is connected to C with the relay at rest. NO will be connected to C with the relay energized.
If you wish to have 12vdc output like the other 4 circuits, simply keep the 10a fuse in place and use the NO position. E represents a relay that provides more options.
To seperate the circuit, pull out the fuse and leave it open. Whatever circuit you put in the far right (C) will come thru NO and NC depending on the state of the relay regardless of polarity as long as you keep the amperage at 10a or lower. Do fuse it wherever possible externally.
A perfect example that I use is I use the common connected to ignition and I wire the shotgun lock to NO. The Smart siren is wired thru a delay-off timer and I wanted to ensure that the shotgun cannot be released if the key is not in the ignition even though the smart siren is activating the relay.
Again, normally open (NO) when the relay is at rest
normally closed (NC) when the relay is at rest.
If there's a fuse, NC will be positive with the relay at rest, NO will be postive when the relay is energized.
Without a fuse, NC is connected to C with the relay at rest. NO will be connected to C with the relay energized.
Sean Barr
EVConcepts
EVConcepts