This forum is dedicated to helping people with questions about installing radio equipment in vehicles. This can include antenna installs, electrical wiring questions/problems, and mounting systems. Pictures of installs are welcome.
Note: Discussions regarding lighting, sirens, and other equipment now has its own forum in the 'off-topic' section below.
I see you were using a saw to cut out part of the inside of the bed. Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle? At least that's what I have been told; many of our vehicles here at work have ball mounts that were installed in locations that have no access to the back side of the mount.
Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle?
Yes they are, but sometimes it is easier to make an access hole to the back side. Another issue would be if the "inside" wall was too close to allow clearance for the center conductor connection of the ball mount.
sglass,
I did a similar install on by old blazer and tahoe. I see you mounted the 706 on the floor. Did you ever look at putting in on the overhead console? THe 706 head fits nicely on most older GM overhead consoles without rear heat.
I dont know of any ball mount that can be installled soley from the outside. IN addition to 3 bolts, nuts and washers to put on you have to connect the lead wire or coax to the mount.
W4KRR wrote:I see you were using a saw to cut out part of the inside of the bed. Aren't ball mounts made so they can be installed from outside the vehicle? At least that's what I have been told; many of our vehicles here at work have ball mounts that were installed in locations that have no access to the back side of the mount.
A trick I was taught by a local radio installer for low band ball mounts:
When you need to cut an access hole from the inside of the vehicle, drill all the way through with a 1/4" bit (through the vehicle skin and the interior obstruction.
Use the 1/4" hole as a pilot for a 3" holesaw from the inside to cut the interior obstruction (as in the interior of the pick up bed). Do not cut through the exterior sheetmetal! Open up the 1/4" pilot hole enough for the bolt for the greenlee punch for the ball mount.
Install the antenna as usual. Use a 3" capplug (snap in cover) to close hole. Add sillicone sealant as necessary.
gws wrote:sglass,
I did a similar install on by old blazer and tahoe. I see you mounted the 706 on the floor. Did you ever look at putting in on the overhead console? THe 706 head fits nicely on most older GM overhead consoles without rear heat.
no upper console in the pickup
I had actually considered that, but decided it would annoy me up there
I dont know of any ball mount that can be installled soley from the outside. IN addition to 3 bolts, nuts and washers to put on you have to connect the lead wire or coax to the mount.
The state of Florida DOT uses low band ball mounts extensively. The ones installed on the pickup trucks are either on the side of the bed, or on the side of the cab behind the driver's door. These installations have no access holes or other openings behind the mount.
I asked our radio shop about how they can do a ball mount with no inside access. The ball mount uses a "C" shaped backing (grounding) plate, which they sometimes call a horseshoe, which has threaded mounting holes so that no nuts are needed. After the mounting holes and center hole are drilled in the vehicle, the "horseshoe" is inserted from outside the body through the center hole with the coax braid already connected. The coax has been fished up from below and out the center hole. While holding the horseshoe in place, headless bolts are threaded from outside, through the three mounting holes into the horseshoe. The ball is pre attached to the plastic mounting base, then the center conductor of the coax is attached to the mounting lug on the back of the ball. The ball with coax and base attached is then slipped over the headless bolts, which can now be removed and replaced, one at a time, with regular mounting bolts. This is what they said, I have never actually seen it done.
that's the kind of moutn jason had
mine was a older style (I bought it in 1991, never had the nads to install it until now)) which has a full metal circle on the back side.
Kinda have to cut an access hole with those.
Seth
now-that I know how the other kind works, that might be an option in the blazer.
Yeah, probably not a good idea pumping 100 watts from a whip inches from your head!
Speaking of hamsexy I know a guy who's got a 706 feeding an Icom AT-180 and 13' whip! The whole tuner/antenna is mounted to a 2" trailer hitch sleeve for easy removal. The whip barely makes it under highway overpasses.
maybe I am "hamsexy" too.. I had a 16ft whip on my blazer. A bit much mobile, but it can be broken down to smaller sizes when tryly mobile.
va3wxm wrote:Yeah, probably not a good idea pumping 100 watts from a whip inches from your head!
Speaking of hamsexy I know a guy who's got a 706 feeding an Icom AT-180 and 13' whip! The whole tuner/antenna is mounted to a 2" trailer hitch sleeve for easy removal. The whip barely makes it under highway overpasses.
Yes,t aht is a good idea. When I had my Dodge Omni (yes, I really did - was a good car too) I used Hustler HF antennas. I had a nylon string as a guy wire from the hinge on the hatchback to the top of the mast.
For my Ranger now, I've been thinking of the best way to add upper support and I think you've given me a good idea. I like using the acrylic for it. I have a cap on my truck though, so I'll put the support up the top of the cap.
Now to decide what antenna. I wish I could afford a screwdriver. Oh well
Nice install Seth.
Chris,
Hamming 31 years http://www.wa2zdy.com
Wesley Chapel, Pasco County, Florida
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