Does anyone have any tips on replacing this jack with normal methods? Do components on the opposite of the board need to be removed first? Thanks in advance
Tron
GP-300 spkr/mic jack replacement
Moderator: Queue Moderator
Hi:
Replacing the GP300 / P110 Ext Speaker Jack
is a pretty tough job. If you have Superior
Soldering abilities, you can give it a try.
If not, let a Skilled Motorola tech address
the proceedure,
The problem replacing the External Jack, is that " you must " remove the componets around the jack in order to gain access to the solder tabs of the metal cover and tabs.
After removal of some of the surounding parts, remove the metal cover, and then the
Speaker Jack.
The tough one to desolder is the one located
in the far back. and sometimes removal of the
2 small Mon / resest buttons is not all that
bad of a idea either. You also should consider removal of the Ant Finger Contact.
I use a 800 degree Weller Solder Station
with a fine tip, along with #3 Solder Wick
Monty
Replacing the GP300 / P110 Ext Speaker Jack
is a pretty tough job. If you have Superior
Soldering abilities, you can give it a try.
If not, let a Skilled Motorola tech address
the proceedure,
The problem replacing the External Jack, is that " you must " remove the componets around the jack in order to gain access to the solder tabs of the metal cover and tabs.
After removal of some of the surounding parts, remove the metal cover, and then the
Speaker Jack.
The tough one to desolder is the one located
in the far back. and sometimes removal of the
2 small Mon / resest buttons is not all that
bad of a idea either. You also should consider removal of the Ant Finger Contact.
I use a 800 degree Weller Solder Station
with a fine tip, along with #3 Solder Wick
Monty
It's a pain in the ass job, for sure, but can be made much easier with the (proper) use of a heat gun. First, remove the antenna spring contact and RF test jack from the opposite side of the board. Identify all the points which will require the solder removed. I use a Weller 1500 watt heat gun, turn it on & let it warm up for about 30 seconds. Then, use it to heat the opposite side of the board right at the connector, holding it about 2 inches away, for about 15 seconds. Then proceed to remove the solder (using fine braid solder wick, not a solder sucker)from the ground connections first, while the board is still warm, and the other connections after. This makes the removal of the solder much easier, especially for the ground connections.
You can do the job without a heat gun, using a hot iron, but my experience shows the through-hole traces are too easily damaged.You may be able to do it once, but probably not the next time the radio comes in for a connector, as the through-holes will probably be a mess the second time around, then you're screwed, even a flat-rate won't apply.
DO NOT do this unless you're comfortable with using a heat gun, properly. Too much heat and components start dropping off!!
You can do the job without a heat gun, using a hot iron, but my experience shows the through-hole traces are too easily damaged.You may be able to do it once, but probably not the next time the radio comes in for a connector, as the through-holes will probably be a mess the second time around, then you're screwed, even a flat-rate won't apply.
DO NOT do this unless you're comfortable with using a heat gun, properly. Too much heat and components start dropping off!!
They will NOT cover the unit under flat-rate if the board traces have been damaged. It will be deemed as "physical damage", and will quote a new board for much more money. Practice on a junked board, if you have any. Once you do 1 or 2, it's easy.On 2001-11-08 10:51, Dave wrote:
You should try it just to get some practice. If you mess things up, you can still send it to depot and they will replace all bad parts under the flat rate fee.
Todd