Batboard

Hooking up an A5 Dash (D43KXA7JA5BK) in a 96 GMC Jimmy. Have done several searches and found answer to my 1st Ignition sense question (that is that the fuse should be 3-watt, right?)

1. Any particular type fuse recommended in ignition sens?
2. Also, anyone have a recommendation as to best place and method to tap into this switched supply?
3. Do I even need to use ignition sense wire directly to IGN wire, or can I fuse it (3a) and run this to the red that goes to battery?
4. Another question I cannot seem to confirm answer to: What rating, type fuse(s) should go in the main posi & neg lines?
5. Can the cig. lighter be used for test power before running red thru the firewall?
6. Does the mike have to be grounded on the mic holder?
7. Finally, it's obvious this is my 1st install. ANY other cautions, advice, NO-NO's, YES-YES's, etc would be highly appreciated.

I feel compelled to ask these questions as I have not specifically found my answers. I have seen some folks get personal about too many repetitive questions - if you can help, but would rather give a link than write it out, then please tell me where to go...

aahh, the link, that is!

Thanks everyone

Let's answer a few questions:

1) The factory ignition sense comes with a 3amp ATC Blade fuse.

2&3) You can use a fuse tap in the fuse box, using a voltmeter find a fuse that goes on and off with run and accessory. Or you can run this to a constant, your choice.

4) Most of the dashmount spectras use a 15amp fuse.

5) I wouldn't. Most cig lighters will not hold up to transmit of a spectra and you may cause a fire, I wouldn't even suggest it for just turning it on.


6) Not sure on that one, I can't remember if the spectras have the capability like the Astros to leave monitor status of the radio regardless of microphone on hook or off.

And lastly since this is an install question, you may post in the install forum, since that's where it would need to be. Don't repost one of the moderators may move it for you, just future thought

And good luck.

(1) already answered
(2) For ignition switched power? I would either splice into the stereo's switched hot lead or find either an empty fuse slot at the interior fuse block. Or you could find a used ignition-switched hot fuse in the interior fuse box and get a piggyback to slide over the fuse. This'll give you a contact to use. Radio Shack sells them.
(3) You can have that going to a constant hot lead but then you'll have to remember to turn the radio on/off all the time.
(4) Your radio is a 45W model. You should use a 15A fuse.
(5) I wouldn't.
(6) No. For either Monitor or Scan states you can set/change them at the radio head. You must have two buttons on the head programmed for monitor and scan (seperately).
(7) Fuse both positive and negative leads at the battery within 8" of the terminals. If/when going thru the firewall take caution with the hole's edges. I've ripped some flesh from firewall holes. Also, as a precaution I either use shrinp tubing or wrap the radio's power wires a few times with duct tape right where the wire would possibly rub against the firewall hole. This gives a little protection to the power cable. Other than that, take your time and do it right the FIRST time.

[quote="Lord Windeshmere(7) Ground both positive and negative leads at the battery within 8" of the terminals. [/quote]


Huh???? Have your fire extinguisher and welding helmet ready. I really wouldn't recommend grounding an energized power lead....

i think he meant FUSE both leads within 8 inches of the battery terminals, but i would only fuse the hot side, as i prefer NOT to run my radio grounds all the way to battery....and then i just go for the most solid frame ground within about 2 feet of the final mount.

Yes I did, and my post has been corrected.
Especially with today's vehicles you should still fuse the ground lead no matter where you connect it to.

I never did agree with fusing any ground lead. Neither does any automotive electrical engineer or the SAE.

Scenario:
The radio has two 15 amp fuses under the hood. One on hot, one on ground.

Somebody takes the hot fuse out for whatever reason and they replace it with a....say...a 25 or 30 amp fuse.

The radio now malfunctions someday for whatever reason.

The 15 amp ground fuse now opens and the hot doesn't.

You now have 30 amps going through a coax or a mic cord to ground. Next comes the smoke followed by fire.

There's no real legit reason to fuse the ground lead. Do you fuse the grounds in the shack? Does GM, Ford, Daihatsu or Mercedes fuse any grounds. Nope.

Serves no purpose. Leave it solid for safety. If installed properly, the single hot fuse will protect the radio.

1996 GMC Jimmy should be set up the same as my '95 Blazer if I remember correctly. If your going to be adding alot to the car I would suggest getting a seperate fuse block. I ran I piece of 4ga. off the battery with a circuit breaker and through the drivers side of the firewall. If you lift the carpet near the brake pedal there's a nice BIG and VERY forgiving gromet that you can run the wire through - I believe it has the hood pop cable in it. I used a Mini-ATC type fuse block to the inside of my glove compartment right underneath the relay access panel. You can get your switched power by adding a standard bosch relay to your incomming power. I took the ign. sense for my relay from the ign sense on the radio, seeing that it really won't be pulling much. Just watch the dash when you take it off, it can be a royal pain in the....BTW: If you do break the hazard light switch (very common), I've got the replacement part number...I think it's $15.....

Good luck...


Matt