Batboard

Have a HT-1250 that the user tried to yoink the knob and tore the shaft straight out of the pot on the chassis. I REALLY don't want to send this to my local dealer as it will automatically go to depot as they don't do any repairs on any item at all. Anyone ever do one of these? Any advice? Should I try?

I have done many, a T6, some solder wick or station if on the bench, and about 20 minutes you should have a properly working volume pot.

Watch your heat on the board if trying to remove the 2 main case points. 6 layer boards do not like heat.

CoM

That said, by far the easiest method is to use a 1200-watt Weller heat gun on 'high' setting for about 30-seconds on the board directly where the volume pot is located. Then, use your iron & the solder wick on the 2 case points immediately. Doing so will allow the solder to suck onto the wick with relative ease. Then, do the ground connections on the volume control connections next (while there is still residual heat from the gun warming the board), then the other connections last. The entire removal procedure (not counting the 30-second warm up) shouldn't take more than 30 seconds...for a standard bench tech at least.

wavetar wrote:That said, by far the easiest method is to use a 1200-watt Weller heat gun on 'high' setting for about 30-seconds on the board directly where the volume pot is located. Then, use your iron & the solder wick on the 2 case points immediately. Doing so will allow the solder to suck onto the wick with relative ease. Then, do the ground connections on the volume control connections next (while there is still residual heat from the gun warming the board), then the other connections last. The entire removal procedure (not counting the 30-second warm up) shouldn't take more than 30 seconds...for a standard bench tech at least.

+1

Solder wick and a gun are necessary for doing these. Heat it up real quick, nail it with the wick, and then do any remaining tabs with wick and a pencil iron.

If you have a hard time heating up the solder, or it just doesn't want to play nice, the old "re-flow" trick can't hurt either. Once in a while I'll get a finicky one that just doesn't want to heat evenly, or the solder won't flow onto the wick. A little new solder in with the old and Presto! The housing and pins pull right off the board.

Whatever you do, don't try to "snap" the remainder of the housing off the board - you'll end up with micro-sized pieces of metal stuck in the board that are a pain in the ass to get out before you can put the new part in.

A desoldering pump with good vacuum works very well once the pins are thoroughly heated.

Desolder the guide pins from the front of the switch, them suck out the solder from the pins.

The plated vias are easily damaged though, so make certain your applied heat is constant and you can work fast.